Every year, I see the hot cross buns arrive in the supermarkets just after Christmas. After I get over my initial incredulity at seeing Easter products in DECEMBER, I think, ‘ooh, hot cross buns would be nice’.
A couple of weeks later, I give in and buy a pack. We eat them, then complain about how bad they are and how I should just make my own. Occasionally I make a single batch in response to this before forgetting how easy it was and giving up again.
Not this year, people. This year is different. It’s the year I resolved not to buy a single shop version of the too-lightly-spiced, too sweet, too suspiciously soft (even after three days on the bench), over-fruited or under-fruited Easter buns.
The minimally processed argument is especially valid when it comes to cakes, biscuits and baked goods. We love our treats here and are definitely not no-salt, no-sugar, no-fat subscribers (the brownies coming up in my next post will assure you of that). For the most part, though, I make those treats myself because the versions widely available at shops are AWFUL. Full of preservatives, emulsifiers, fake flavourings and hydrogenated fats. Because of those things, they’re not only more difficult for your body to digest, they also taste almost universally bad. I don’t know about you but if I’m going to consume a bunch of empty kilojoules, I at least want them to be as delicious and as satisfying as they can be.
And that, at last, brings us to today’s recipe.
I thought these would work well cooked on combination steam, and they did. Golden, tender and even-textured, and really really delicious. If you haven’t discovered the steam oven’s affinity with yeasted dough already, they’re the perfect thing to start you off and the effort vs reward is firmly in your favour. You, like me, may never feel the need to buy the inferior supermarket variety again.
Hot Cross Buns in a steam oven
- Stand mixer with dough hook
For the buns
- 3 tsp instant yeast
- 1/3 cup superfine sugar caster sugar
- 1 cup whole milk lukewarm
- 4 cups bread flour you can use plain/all purpose flour in a pinch but bakers flour has a higher protein content and will give better structure to your finished buns
- 2 tsp mixed spice
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- ½ tsp salt
- 3 oz unsalted butter very soft
- 1 egg lightly beaten
- 1/3 cup water warm, you may need up to half a cup
- 1 cup sultanas
- 2/3 cup dried apricots diced, if they're firm like mine were, soak in boiling water for 20 minutes then drain and use
For the crosses
- ¼ cup all purpose flour plain flour
- 2 tbs water you may need up to 3-4 tablespoons
- Mix the yeast, milk and a teaspoon of the sugar in a small bowl and set aside for 10 minutes so the yeast can activate.
- Put the flour, spices, salt, egg, yeast mixture and water in the bowl of an electric stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. Mix on low speed until a dough forms – add a little more water if you need it, you’re looking for a fairly wet dough (most of it should be mixing around the hook, but it won’t completely leave the sides of the bowl).
- Add a quarter of the butter and keep mixing on low speed until it combines. Repeat with the remaining butter, adding small amounts and waiting for it to be incorporated before adding more. By the time all the butter has been added, you should have a smooth and elastic dough which just comes away from the sides of the bowl.
- Lightly oil a large bowl and scrape the dough into it. Prove for 30-45 minutes or until doubled in size – use your oven’s dough proving setting if you have one (I run mine at 100˚F/38˚C for 30 minutes and it works perfectly). If you don’t have a dough proving setting, just set the oven to 100˚F/38˚C on the steam function.
- Once the dough has proved, scrape it onto a well floured surface and gently press it out into a large rectangle. Sprinkle the fruit over the rectangle, then fold the dough into thirds, pressing it out again. Repeat twice more to make sure the fruit is evenly distributed through the dough.
- Cut the dough into 18 portions (I am pedantic and weighed mine by putting all the dough on the scales and dividing by 18. They were about 82g each). Form each portion into a nice ball. There are lots of ways to do this but I just put the dough on my floured bench and keep turning and pulling the edges ‘in’ until a nice round shape forms. You’re left with a lovely smooth ball when you turn it over and any uneven bits from your working become the bottom. Put the dough balls, evenly spaced, onto two trays (it might look like they’ll all fit on one but you need to give them room to grow!).
- Here’s where you can make your choice about the second prove: if you’re in a hurry, prove the buns in your steam oven again for about 30 minutes, until they double in size. If you’re content to wait until the morning and bake fresh buns for breakfast, cover the trays loosely with lightly oiled cling film and put in the fridge for 12-18 hours. Take them out half an hour before you want to bake and let them warm up. The overnight proving serves two purposes. It lets you do the initial mixing/proving/forming the day before, rather than rushing through the whole process on the day you want to serve them, and the slow rise gives a better flavour to the finished buns.
- When your buns are almost done proving, preheat your oven to 400˚F/200˚C, combination steam setting. If your oven has variable steam settings, use 60% steam. If not, don't worry! Just set your oven to combi steam at the correct temperature and the oven will figure out the humidity for you.
- Mix the flour and water for the crosses and put into a small piping bag with a round nozzle (a zip-lock sandwich bag with the corner snipped makes a good substitute). Pipe crosses onto the buns, then bake for 15 minutes or until golden.
- While the buns cook, put the glaze ingredients into a small pan and bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar and glucose. Brush the glaze over the hot buns when they come out of the oven and serve them warm or at room temperature with good butter.
- We like dried apricots in pretty much everything, but you can substitute the specified fruit with an equal quantity of whatever you like. Sour cherries are nice, especially with some dark chocolate chips thrown in. Currants or raisins work in place of sultanas, and I’ve made a lovely date and apple version too (I finely diced a peeled apple, then steamed it for about 5 minutes to soften before mixing through the dough with a handful of diced dates).
- I cooked half of my batch in a perforated tray and the other half in a solid tray (both lined with parchment paper). The difference in results was minimal but the perforated tray gave a slightly more golden base to the buns.
- Because these are not full of preservatives and other delightful supermarket-bread goodies, they’ll go stale a lot quicker. They’re great on the day of baking but if you’re not going to eat them all, freeze the leftovers and defrost when you’re ready to eat them.